YESTERDAY, TODAY & TOMORROW
THE JEWS OF
Poland
WITH JLTV’S BRAD POMERANCE
OCTOBER 2–11, 2023

Overview

Brad Pomerance and JLTVJewish Life Television’s Brad Pomerance, award-winning host & producer of JLTV’s global travel series Air, Land & Sea, takes us on a ten-day exploration of the country he calls “the Jewish people’s most recent ancestral homeland.” Before World War II, Poland’s over three million Jews — Hasidim, secular Jewish intellectuals, Yiddish writers, Zionists, and socialists — formed the world’s largest Jewish community. This was the land that was home for so many of our ancestors for nearly 1,000 years. “I descend from Polish Jews,” says Pomerance. “Three of my grandparents are Polish, and going there feels like coming home, a place where my family lived for generations.”

Today, Jewish culture is being both rediscovered and rebuilt in Poland. A world-class museum devoted to Jewish history recently opened in Warsaw, Jewish festivals attract thousands each year, and there are Judaic studies departments at several Polish universities. “Jewish life in Poland is truly being reinvigorated,” says Pomerance. 

This historical adventure starts in Krakow, where we’ll visit the first Jewish kehilat or community, tour the oldest Salt Mine in Europe, and witness the city’s Jewish revival. “Krakow’s Jewish community is booming!” says Pomerance. “Jewish life is beginning to thrive there again.” Next, we’ll see Kazimierz and the town of Lublin, “which was known as the ‘Jerusalem of the Polish Kingdom.’ or, even the ‘Jewish Oxford,’” he adds. 

In the capital city of Warsaw, we’ll tour the Old Town and explore the Jewish Historical Institute’s groundbreaking work with the Oneg Szabat program, where “all this incredible documentation was buried and preserved by a hero of the Warsaw Ghetto. So much has been recovered and is now at the institute.”

While we will enjoy the revitalization of Jewish life in Poland, we’ll also honor the tragedies that befell Polish Jewry with visits to the Majdanek Museum, the Monument of the Heroes of the Ghetto, and more, before Brad leads a guided tour of Auschwitz. “In celebrating Jewish life and history in Poland, we still visit these sites and learn more about the Holocaust … that’s also our responsibility. We must do both.  And there is simply no replacement for putting your body in places where history happened.  It will fundamentally change your connection, your understanding to events that have so dramatically impacted World Jewry,” says Pomerance. 

Highlights

  • 9 nights of deluxe accommodations in Kraków, Lublin, Warsaw, and Lodz 
  • Visits to the Polin: Museum of the History of Polish Jews, Krakow’s Royal Route, Market Square, Jagiellonian University, and  former Jewish district of Kazimierz; Remuh Synagogue; Tempel synagogue; the Galicja Jewish Museum; the Salt Mine in Wieliczka; Old Town Lublin; Chohamei Lublin Yeshiva; the House of Words; Lublin Castle; the Nożyk Synagogue; Warsaw’s Old Town, Market Square, and the Barbican; and the Jewish Historical Institute
  • A walking tour of Chmielnik with music and literature depicting shtetl life (and the ancestral hometown, as far back as the 1700s, of one of the branches of Brad’s family tree)
  • Presentations and discussions with Brad Pomerance and Jewish Heritage Travel scholars
  • Visits to Holocaust memorials: the Majdanek Museum, the Monument of the Heroes of the Ghetto, the Umschlagplatz in Warsaw, the Radegast train station, the Auschwitz Jewish Center, and a guided tour of Auschwitz

Itinerary

Monday, Oct 2 | Krakow (D)

Guests will arrive in Krakow, the country’s second-largest city, and travel independently to the Bachleda Luxury hotel. Housed in an historic 19th-century building and done in a classic art deco style, the hotel showcases breathtaking views of the Vistula bend and is just a few minutes walk from the Main Market Square. The group will gather for a welcome dinner together at a traditional Polish restaurant near the hotel. 

Tuesday, Oct 3 | Krakow (B,L)

The group will explore the city of Krakow for our first morning together.  This will include walking the Royal Route, Market Square, and Jagiellonian University with the site of the city’s first Jewish kehilat. Later, we’ll visit the former Jewish district of Kazimierz with its shops and art galleries alongside synagogues and praying houses. “It is particularly stunning,” says Brad. “This was the Jewish heart of the city for hundreds of years, and they are now really trying to represent that pre-WWII Jewish history and hosting festivals every summer.”

We’ll visit the 16th-century Remuh synagogue, named after Rabbi Moses Isserles, a small house of worship and one of the most renowned synagogues in the world. We will also visit the Tempel synagogue, built in 1862 in an architectural blend of Moorish and neo-Romanesque styles. Both an active synagogue and cultural center, it hosts performing artists and concerts every summer for the city’s Jewish Culture Festival. If time allows, we can also visit Kupa synagogue and its rich paintings depicting biblical scenes and holy places or the Galicja Jewish Museum with photo exhibitions tracing Polish-Jewish history.  

In the late afternoon, we’ll travel to the famous Salt Mine in Wieliczka, one of the country’s biggest tourist attractions, where rock salt had been mined since the 13th century. As the oldest mine in Europe, it was inscribed in the very first UNESCO World Cultural and Natural Heritage list in 1978. The tour includes 20 historic chambers, which reach 327 meters deep and are connected by two kilometers of passages.

We will return to the Bachleda Luxury hotel in the evening and have dinner separately. 

Wednesday, Oct 4 | Krakow | Kazimierz Dolny | Lublin (B,L)

The next morning, we will climb aboard a luxury tour bus with oversized windows to enjoy the view of the Polish countryside for during drive to Kazimierz Dolny, a small historic town on the bank of the Vistula. After lunch at a local cafe, we’ll visit the town synagogue and Jewish cemetery before heading to Lublin to check in to the IBB Hotel Grand Hotel Lublin. This beautifully renovated hundred-year-old building with interiors in the Belle Epoque style is located in the heart of Lublin.

Thursday, Oct 5 | Lublin (B,L)

The day will start with a walking tour through Lublin’s Old Town. We’ll tour Market Square and “Grodzka Gate – NN Theatre,” a government institution dedicated to preserving cultural heritage located at the Grodzka Gate, the “Jewish Gate” that historically used to be the passage from the Christian to the Jewish part of the city. We’ll tour the Majdanek Museum, the education center on the grounds of the Majdanek death camp. There will be a special arranged visit to Chohamei Lublin Yeshiva. “This was one of the largest and most impressive yeshivas in the world in the 1930s, known at that time as the ‘Academy of the Sages of Lublin,’” says Pomerance. We’ll also see both the Old and New Jewish Cemeteries.

After lunch together, we’ll tour the House of Words, also part of the “Grodzka Gate – NN Theatre.” This fascinating cultural collective and museum of typography is based on a fully functional printing house. We will also stop by the 14th-century Chapel of the Holy Trinity, also known as Lublin Castle Chapel, a UNESCO site.

Friday, Oct 6 | Lublin | Warsaw (B,D)

From Lublin, we’ll travel to Warsaw. After checking into the 5-star deluxe Bristol Hotel — superbly located near Warsaw’s Old Town — we’ll begin our guided visit of Poland’s capital city, including its most important Holocaust memorials. We’ll see the remaining fragments of the ghetto wall; the Monument of the Heroes of the Ghetto; the Umschlagplatz, the site for the deportation of Warsaw’s Jews to Treblinka; and the Jewish cemetery. 

After an emotional day, we’ll enjoy a sweet Shabbat dinner with local Jewish community members. 

Saturday, Oct 7 | Old Town Warsaw (B,D)

We’ll be free this morning to explore the city on our own or attend services at the Nożyk Synagogue. Built in 1898, this is Poland’s most recent synagogue, located a short walk from the hotel. A walking tour of Warsaw later in the day will include Warsaw’s Old Town, Market Square, and the Barbican (the surviving remnant of Old Town’s defensive structure). Finally, we’ll break for lunch on our own in the Old Market Square, an area filled with street vendors, cafés, shops, galleries, and some of Warsaw’s top restaurants. We’ll also visit the impressive Polin: Museum of the History of Polish Jews on the site of the former Warsaw Ghetto. This historical museum presents 1,000 years of Jewish life in the Polish lands.

Sunday, Oct 8 | Warsaw | Lodz  (B,D)

To start the day, we’ll have a group visit to the Jewish Historical Institute, also known as the Emanuel Ringelblum Jewish Historical Institute. “This is a unique experience. Ringelblum, a hero of the Warsaw Ghetto, buried a treasure trove of documents,” explains Pomerance. “They were chronicling these events as they were happening to ‘let the world read and know.’ It’s called the Oneg Shabbat Underground Archive, and these recovered papers can now be studied at the institute.”

We’ll travel to Lodz and check into the modern Puro Lodz Centrum hotel, located in the city center and close to Piotrkowska street with all its restaurants, cafes, bars, and shops. Known as the Manchester of Poland, Lodz had a thriving textile industry, which Jews were an integral part of throughout the early 20th century. Jewish families owned 175 factories here, including the I. K. Poznański factory, one of Europe’s largest textile plants. We will visit the Radegast train station historical site (used as the Umschlagplatz for the deportation of Jews to extermination camps) and the Lodz Jewish cemetery, once the largest Jewish cemetery in Poland.

We’ll take a ryksza (the modern Polish version of a rickshaw ride) down Piotrkowska, the city’s main boulevard and one of the longest commercial thoroughfares in Europe. We’ll admire the grand Poznanski palaces, see the functioning synagogue of Wolf Reicher, and spend some time at the New Jewish Cemetery, the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe. We’ll visit the former Lodz Ghetto territory with several buildings preserved from that time. 

Monday, Oct 9 | Lodz | Chmielnik | Kraków (B,L)

We’ll continue to the south central town of Chmielnik, just two hours south of Warsaw. Before the war, 80% of the population here was Jewish. We’ll visit the town cemetery and its restored synagogue, which holds the Świętokrzyski Shtetl Education and Museum Center dedicated to the town’s Jewish history. We’ll have lunch at Chmielnik’s Jewish-style restaurant, Cymes, and enjoy a tour enriched with Jewish music and excerpts from Jewish literature depicting life in a shtetl. We’ll spend the night at the 5-star Bachleda Luxury Hotel, located on the bank of the Wisla River, within walking distance of the Wawel Castle and the Kazimierz district. Brad can trace that one of his grandfather’s line to this shtetl as far back as the early 1700s.  

Tuesday, Oct 10 Kraków | Auschwitz (B,L,D) 

On our last full day together, we’ll visit Auschwitz. “This is actually my wife’s grandmother’s hometown. She was one of ten children. Two of them left and the other eight, sadly, stayed here,” says Brad. 

We will begin at the Auschwitz Jewish Center for a tour and lunch, followed by a guided tour of Auschwitz itself. The Auschwitz Jewish Center (AJC) in Oświęcim, operated by the Museum of Jewish Heritage,  is located two miles from the Auschwitz-Birkenau death camps. It is the only Jewish presence in the vicinity of Auschwitz. The center opened its doors in 2000 so that people from around the world could gather to learn, pray, and remember the victims of the Holocaust. 

In the evening, we’ll gather for a special dinner at the local center for Ukrainian refugees — operated by the Jewish Community Center of Kraków — at Paszkowka Palace.  “Seeing Jewish people helping these Ukrainian refugees here — in Poland — is profoundly meaningful,” adds Pomerance.

Wednesday, Oct 11   Depart Kraków (B)

Check out and depart Kraków at your leisure.

Traveling with you…

Brad Pomerance currently serves as host and series producer of the award-winning television program Air Land & Sea, broadcasting weekly on the national basic cable network Jewish Life Television/JLTV. To produce this historically driven global travel series, Brad and his intrepid crew have journeyed to Barbados, Czech, Germany, Israel, Jamaica, Japan, Malta, Morocco, Poland, Portugal, Spain, Switzerland, Taiwan, Turkey, and more.

Brad and the Air Land & Sea team have been honored with multiple awards for their work, including “Best in Class/TV-Radio-Web” from the Religion Communicators Council, “Outstanding Religion Documentary” from the Religion News Association, and several Telly trophies.

The descendants of Polish Jews, Brad has visited Poland twice, traveling throughout the country to cover The March of the Living. Brad was also fortunate to visit his grandmother’s shtetl, where he met a Polish man who had been acquainted with Brad’s relatives, who sadly perished in the Holocaust.

Brad also hosts Uncovered in the Archives, a historically driven television series he developed for PBS-affiliate KVCR in Southern California. This award-winning program is currently in production for its second season.

Brad recently concluded a long run as host of Charter Local Edition, broadcast daily on the California Channel. He interviewed elected officials at all levels of government, from mayors to supervisors, from state legislators to members of the U.S. Congress, from governors to senators.

In addition to the honors received for his work on Air Land & Sea, Brad has received several awards for his work — both at JLTV and KVCR — from the American Psychological Association’s Society of Media Psychology, the Los Angeles Press Club, and the Society of American Archivists. Previously, Brad was honored with three Los Angeles-area Emmy nominations for his work at Local Edition and LA City View Channel 35. He is married to Tina Fuller Pomerance. They have two daughters. Ivy is attending Emory University and Paige is at the University of Michigan. You can follow Brad on Twitter @bradpomerance.

Tomasz Cebulski, PhD, born in Kraków, graduated with his first master’s degree in International Relations from Jagiellonian University with a thesis on “Polish-Israeli Relations after 1989.” He received his second master’s degree in Middle and Far East studies with a thesis on “The Role of Holocaust Memory in Shaping Israeli Identity.” In October 2014, Tomasz received his PhD with his dissertation on “Political and International Aspects of the Functioning of the Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum in the years 1980-2010.”

Tomasz is an experienced genealogist and licensed tour leader in Poland and Central Europe. He received a state guiding certificate for the Auschwitz-Birkenau Museum and for Kraków and Galicia, including the Second World War Museum at Schindler’s Factory. In 2014, he entered into a partnership with the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews in Warsaw. He directs POLIN TRAVEL, a Jewish genealogy and tour company he founded in the late 1990s.

Tomasz is the author of multiple articles on the history of Polish Jews, genealogy, and the politics of memory. He writes a regular column in the blog section of Times of Israel. He is active on social media, promoting historical and political analysis content on both his YouTube and Facebook channels.

Tomasz is the author of Auschwitz after Auschwitz: History, Memory, Politics, published in 2016. The book debates the dynamic of construction of Holocaust memory and provides insight into the Auschwitz Museum by analyzing the politics of commemoration and conflict resolution during the last three decades.

In 2020, Tomasz established a new visual project, Sky Heritage Pictures,  to present historical sites from a drone vantage point. These films are used by museums, educational institutions, and for family genealogies. Some of these productions are available on the Sky Heritage Pictures YouTube channel. He also established the Teen Flying University to promote history education among Polish youth by exposing students to local sites of memory and involving them in maintaining these sites.

Accommodations

KRAKOW: BACHLEDA LUXURY HOTEL

The Bachleda Luxury Hotel is located just a few minutes walk from the Main Market Square and close to Wawel Royal Castle and other major sites. The rooms inside this historic 19th-century building are in a classic art deco style, with some offering breathtaking views of the Vistula bend. Common spaces are decorated with beautiful marble mosaics, golden ornamentation, crystal chandeliers, and charming fireplaces for timeless elegance. A fitness center, indoor pool, massages, and  international cuisine at the hotel restaurant are all available to guests.

LUBLIN: IBB GRAND HOTEL LUBLIN

The four-star IBB Grand Hotel Lublin (Grand Hotel Lublinianka) is housed in a beautifully restored hundred-year-old building just 500 meters from Lublin’s Old Town. Meticulously restored architectural details and beautiful interiors in the Belle Epoque style accompany a fitness center and a hotel restaurant serving international food for a unique and relaxing atmosphere right in the heart of the city.

WARSAW: HOTEL BRISTOL
Situated on the famous Royal Route, in the heart of Warsaw, for over 100 years the 5-star Hotel Bristol has served as Warsaw’s most distinguished destination. With a majestic neo-Renaissance façade, romantic interiors, and Art Deco elegance, the Bristol is just steps away from Nowy Swiat—the most fashionable street in Warsaw. Recently renovated, the Bristol combines incomparable beauty and luxury with a prestigious blend of history and culture. The exquisite guest rooms reflect an engaging mix of comfort, discreet elegance, and state-of-the-art technology.

ŁODZ: PURO ŁODZ CENTRUM

In the middle of the city center, the PURO Łódź Centrum is just a short stroll from the famous Piotrkowska street with all the restaurants, cafes, bars, and shops. This design-focused hotel is both refined and playful, using open and inviting spaces for an eclectic visual experience. The rooms, crafted by interior design studio Superfutures, are bathed in natural light and furnished with the “comfiest of beds.” Guests can enjoy views from the rooftop terrace; Thai massages, facials, and body scrubs at the hotel spa; the fitness center; and the upscale bar. 

Details

Program cost: $5,490*

Program fee includes:

  • 9 nights’ accommodations at deluxe hotels
  • Full breakfast daily; five lunches; five dinners
  • All group transportation via deluxe air-conditioned coach

*Per-person, double occupancy; single supplement ($1,590) and gratuities ($140) additional

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Participation Tour sizes are limited to 28 participants unless otherwise noted. Trips entail considerable walking including over uneven terrain. Participants need to be in good health, be able to keep up with the group, be able to experience group and cultural differences with grace, and be fully vaccinated against COVID-19. Please let us know if you have any physical conditions that may require special attention while on tour.

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